Memories

Wednesday 17 July 2013

My long term memory has always been poor. Dates, names, faces, places all blur a little over time. I wish I had kept diaries - I only have one which is in the attic at home and details our 6 months travelling in Australia and New Zealand in 1990. Funny how things come back to you, a few places we've been in the past week have brought the memories flooding back.

* * * * *

On the Pelion Peninsula we wild camped outside the pretty village of Chorefto. Watching a family fishing we realised we were parked next to their ancient vehicle which was a 2 seater Toyota Liteace. When they came to leave father and son sat in the front and wife and daughter-in-law piled onto a mattress in the back. We knew the feeling – we bought exactly the same little van in Sydney all those years back to drive around Australia. It was dwarfed by our current luxurious camper.

Ours was white with 'roo bars' on the front
We were slumming it then – we slept on a thin foam mattress in the back and had a 2 burner petrol stove and a cool box, no shower or toilet facilities!  Dave fitted some netting to the sides to hold our 2 rucksacks worth of clothes. Food and cooking utensils were stored in 2 plastic boxes and we had a hessian bag for water that hung off the front of the van working on the ‘evaporation causes cooling’ principle. We had 'roo bars' on the front but the van would probably have come off worse had we hit a big’un. We had a brilliant time and probably clocked up about 7000 miles travelling up the eastern coast from Sydney to Cairns, across to Darwin before following the road train lorries south through the outback to Ayres Rock and onto Adelaide and Melbourne. I clearly remember sitting in the back of the van doing the pregnancy testing kit we bought from a local chemist unable to fathom out why I was being so sick. At the end of the trip we sold the van in Sydney making a bit of a profit on it – result! The other ‘result’ of course is Gareth – the test kit proved positive!



* * * * *
A couple of weeks ago we drove through Volos, a large town which sits at the top of the Pagasitikos Gulf in an almost completely enclosed bay. To the east lies the Pelion Peninsula and to the north the stunning monasteries of Meteora. I had been to Volos before but can’t remember much of the town itself which is home to a population of almost 150,000. It is an odd mix of busy streets with smart shops and a flashy yacht lined waterfront, but also a massive cement works, large industrial areas, a commercial port and graffiti covered derelict buildings – all laid out in a very geometrical grid pattern. 

Fishing boats with hotels and yachts in the background
It was in the late 1970’s when together with a group of school friends, the very same ones I met up with in Dubrovnik this May, we arrived here on a cruise on the SS Uganda. We had a great time and it felt luxurious at the time but in reality it was like travelling steerage – kept out of sight of the full fare-paying passengers, sleeping in dorms on metal bunks and eating off prison like food trays in a smelly canteen.  The Meteora monasteries stand atop massive rock pinacles and were featured in the closing scenes of the Bond movie ‘For your eyes only’ in 1981. Dave and I decided to bypass them on our current trip - Dave wasn’t too bothered as there would be lots of walking up steps on a painful foot and I had been there before and have the scar to prove it!

Tiny scar now but it hurt like hell at the time!
Going up the many steps to the monasteries I tripped over my clumsy size 7 feet. They still cause me trouble now and I still don't understand how come my twin sister Sue has petite size 4’s? Anyway back at the ships hospital my chin was stitched up with thick black nylon thus ending my hopes of scoring with any of the lads from the other schools.

* * * * *
Today we drove the camper van over the Corinth Canal – an engineering marvel which was finally competed in 1893 after many years of financial and building difficulties. There are no locks and it cuts a swathe in the rock between the Gulf of Corinth and the Saronic Gulf. At 4 miles long, 300ft high and 80ft wide it saves a round trip of about 430 nautical miles. Most of today's modern ships are too wide to fit through and it is mainly used by yachts and small motor vessels.


I'm scratching my head to remember the year again but I'm guessing it was 1986. Dave and I had been working all year on the yachts in Turkey and Greece and were about to spend a few more months delivering a yacht through the Mediterranean and across the Atlantic. In need of a bit of a land break we were 'dropped off' south east of Athens and we made our way by bus to Zante where we were going to rejoin the yacht. We took a few days off and then started on our onward journey. As we were crossing the bridge over the Corinth we looked down below and were staggered to see 'our' yacht beneath us. There were so many variables, weather, waiting for a time slot time to enter the canal, our bus times, but there they were - what a sheer coincidence. Sadly today there were no buses going over the bridge or yachts going through the canal to recreate the scene, but it is still an awe inspiring view. 


Some mad fools bungee jump off this - no thanks!

And now we are parked up in Galatas opposite the beautiful island and town of Poros and I know I have been there before, but I can't for the life of me remember when or who with! 

Looking over to beautiful Poros town


Taking it easy on the eastern coast of Greece

Tuesday 16 July 2013


Looking at the overall map of Greece it has come as a surprise to calculate that in just over 2 weeks we have clocked up nearly 1000 miles. It’s been such an easy trip.



Some days we haven’t moved an inch, other days we might have driven less than 20 miles further down the coast and found another idyllic bay. Greece has been a bit of an eye opener – we weren’t sure what to expect really. The outside media portrays a country in deep recession with a population struggling to make ends meet. Our own memories are of cruising the busy but barren Greek islands in the 80’s. Outwardly life goes on here quite normally.


Fish restaurant in Cherefto

Fishing nets at Makri
 
Sunset at Toroni - Halkidiki



 We have been captivated by the beautiful lush countryside, the picturesque coastline, the spotlessly clean sea, the miles of sandy beaches and the friendliness of the people. We were worried by the ‘Wild camping is forbidden’ notices and expected it to be a problem as we hit high season but the country is huge, the population well dispersed and there’s very little in the way of mass tourism on the mainland.


Sarti - Halkidiki

Lambinou cove on Pelion Peninsula



Lush gorges on Penion Peninsula

 




The weather has thrown a few curve balls with some spectacular storms, the occasional overcast and rainy days and some very high temperatures, all adding variety to the trip.


Storm watching from Agiokampos beach
Sunset at Porto Germeno

It’s quirky and different to other countries we’ve been through to date, wanting to be modern but still hanging onto its traditions.

Nea Kalikratia
Evening stroll in Alexandroupoli

It’s very much a cash society  - credit and debit cards are rarely seen or used. Whenever I have tried to pay by card for shopping it means me having to traipse over to the supervisors desk and plenty of head scratching whilst they try and remember how to use the EPOS machine. Can you imagine that in Sainsbury’s on a busy Saturday morning? There are notices everywhere saying you don’t have to pay unless you get a receipt! And don’t even think about trying to buy petrol on a card. I handed the attendant a €50 note which he added to a huge wad in his pocket – I’m guessing he had about €3000 in cash all neatly folded up and in the correct denomination order.  I got no receipt from him strangely! 



The only thing that has been a disappointment has been the ancient ruins – over priced, over protected and mostly underwhelming. Some are just foundations, some are predominantly concrete reconstructions and some are closed for renovations that have stalled. We’ve been spoilt in Turkey.


Foundations at ancient Olynthos
Driving around has been challenging – although we think we have now worked out how to avoid the motorways. The road signs are in Greek lettering first and Roman lettering second, normally right on the junction you need to turn off at resulting in lots of ‘U’ turns. Most road signs are completely illegible anyway with graffiti being a huge problem everywhere on buildings and signposts – most of it ugly with a few exceptions.

Derelict buildings in Volos
Graffiti in Nea Anchilos


We’ve found plenty to laugh about including the van overloaded with topiary trees, the beach sellers in Asprovalta and the lazy cricket hitching a ride on the wiper blade. In a tiny village on the Pelion Peninsula we had to stop for about 10 minutes whilst two old boys, the driver of a bashed up vehicle and a local, chatted in the middle of the narrow road. A polite toot from Dave after 5 minutes waiting brought glances but no movement. The driver then got out of his pick-up, staggered to the bakery to get some bread, gave us a look and drove off. A modern country with a twist just like the topiary trees!







Tomorrow we cross the Corinth Canal and see what the Peloponnese has to offer.

Dramatic Delphi

Sunday 14 July 2013



Positioned in the foothills of Mount Parnassos, historic Delphi was traditionally believed to be the geographical  centre of the world – the meeting point of two eagles dispatched by Zeus. For many centuries it was also the religious and spiritual centre of the ancient Greek world and the Delphic oracle was consulted by visitors from across a wide region. 

Theatre and temple set high on the hillside
Who doesn't love a 3D model?
Today visitors of all nationalities form an orderly line behind the rope cordons and obey the rules signposted everywhere – don’t touch this, don’t climb on that, no smoking, don’t remove any artifacts, no flash photography. Hot and bored guards are ready to crack down on any misbehaviour.


Having spent the last 6 weeks in Turkey where you can roam freely over almost all ancient sites it comes as a bit of a shock to have to keep behind a rope cordon. The theatre feels empty and cold without people sitting in the seats and testing the acoustics from all the different levels. The agora and gymnasium need exploring, the temple is a place to stand on and admire close up the huge columns reaching into the sky. Walls with interesting rock shapes scream out to be touched and tombs just have to be peered into. We arrived at 8am and had a lovely morning there but it did feel quite clinical after our rough and ready rambles over Turkish sites.

Treasuries - small temple shaped buildings built by Greek city states as a thank you for the oracles advice

Well preserved polygonal retaining walls of the Temple of Apollo

Stadium - 6500 spectators, 177m long, 25.5m wide - now at danger from rockfalls
The beautiful Tholos which originally had 20 columns
It is a spectacular setting, built on terraces overlooking a vast unspoilt gorge. At €9 for the combined ticket for the site and museum it was well over our ‘attraction budget’ but we couldn’t drive by and not see it. Excavated first in 1893 by the French Archaeological School many precious artifacts unearthed at the site are beautifully displayed in the museum. 


Demigod Antinoos who died before adulthood from drowning in the Nile

No photographic posing allowed - so sneaky (and cheeky) walk by rear shot will have to do!
Lovely lion freize
Bronze Charioteer of Delphi
The Temple of Apollo is believed to be situated over a sacred chasm emitting vapours which were inhaled by Pythia – an older woman of blameless life chosen from amongst the peasants of the sea - who would become the oracle. She would enter a state of delirium and her incoherent rantings would be translated by the priests and relayed to those seeking advice.  Over time earthquakes, changes in beliefs and some dubious predictions brought about the demise of the oracle and it was closed in AD 395. Shame - she could have perhaps given this lady walking around today in a very dubious outfit some wardrobe advice – not sure the mini-toga / baseball cap / trainers look is a good one!


When in Rome...?

Dress down Friday!

Friday 12 July 2013

For the best part of 20 years I turned up for work every day in black trousers, demure tops and sensible shoes. Public sector work doesn't lend itself to Dress Down Fridays!

Ooops - slightly under-dressed at my current desk!

There's more to life than sleeping, eating and swimming! That's what I keep telling myself as the time will soon be here when I have to rejoin the world of work. So to keep my brain from completely turning to mush I have been keeping up with my diary and have also written another 'Country Guide', - on our trip through Turkey this time. 

The couple who have the 'Our Tour' blog have uploaded it and shared with all their followers - they have been travelling for 2 years now with their little dog Charlie in a Hymer van they call Dave.

Here's the link to the page 'Your Tour'

Our friend Annie who we stayed with for 3 weeks in Turkey has also done a lovely post on her blog BacktoBodrum about our time with them. Happy days.